We’re working feverishly to get projects started. To that end, I met with the Director of Women’s Affairs. She introduced me to her staff and honestly, it was inspiring…..if not a little shocking.

Women in Mazar seem to have much more freedom than in Kabul, but they are still very much within the borders of “Man-istan”.  So to sit in a room full of women was something I haven’t done…well, at all since I got here. These incredible women – intelligent, strong and determined – just made me proud to be a woman! Among their many activities are to hold trainings for employees from local governmental offices on women’s equality. They are promoting women and women’s rights in a country where there are many women who never leave their family compounds.

Of the many men I’ve met here, on this topic, only one of them has spoken. He is young, kind and working hard to learn English. Last weekend I wanted to purchase some yarn. After a lot of pantomiming (dragging out my knitting needles and remaining skein of yarn) he finally got it and agreed to accompany me to the market. On our way back he pivoted in his seat, looked back at me and said earnestly, “I never shop with woman.”

The phrase was clear enough, but it took a while to compute. The look of confusion on my face must have translated instantly because he quickly went on to explain that his mother, sister and wife never leave their family compound unless it is to travel to the home of a a relative. Even then, they’re in burqa and accompanied by a male member of their family. You could have parked a Buick in my wide open mouth. Women in Mazar are generally free to shop (albeit in groups) and to go to the Blue Mosque on Wednesdays to pray….but the women in his family never leave the compound for these activities.

I thought of this as I sat in the office listening to each of the women introduce themselves and their work – Economic Director, Women’s Garden Manager, Health Director etc. The stories they hold I cannot imagine and though their stories are not my own I could not deny a sense of connection, of community – of sisterhood.

Mazar Women's Garden

Of the many trips I’ve taken, of the many countries in which I’ve lived…this one has really spun my head around. It is at once amazing, shocking, surprising, fun and incredible! It is leaving an indellible mark on me which makes me wonder…what mark am I leaving?

Playground in the Mazar Women's Garden