The Ramadan fast is finally over! I was fortunate enough to miss my staff’s difficult transition into Ramadan. Apparently the first week is the worst. The whole country is now celebrating the end of the fast with Eid ul-Fitr which is the festival of breaking the fast.

This Eid is celebrated by visiting family and friends in their homes. From what I can gather, people choose one of the three Eid days to receive guests and the other two days they spend out visiting. The second day of Eid, my CfW Coordinator picked me up at the office and we began visiting other staff’s homes for Eid.

Enjoying my first Eid!

The first stop was the longest. Here I met one of my staff’s family – her father, grandfather, mother, sisters and brother. We enjoyed a lovely array of foods including almonds grown in her mother’s garden which I toured.

Eid Henna

I also discovered that the women here put henna on their hands for Eid. Married women also put henna on their feet. I have a feeling that it’s only the newly married women and that there’s more of a ceremony around it…but that’s all I was able to get out of her married sister.

Our second stop was across town at my CfW Coordinator’s home. He had brought his eldest son with him, who had been quiet and observant the whole morning. Upon entering his home turf, he came alive – bringing out his lion mask, roaring – tickling his little brother to make him laugh. A darling little boy!

After lunch, we picked up our donor rep from the local  base and headed out to Tagqorgan – a verdant little town about 45 minutes away. I was surprised to find that one of my staff makes the commute daily. The little town is full of color and life as it has a year-round river running through the middle of it.

A little assistance washing my hands before lunch.

We had to pass over a couple of  “bridges” of dubious origin and weight-bearing capacity and passed a couple of ancient mosques before we finally reached our destination. We exited the car and approached a gate cut into a high wall. A young girl came to greet us and we followed her through a winding alley to her mother’s home.

The modest home had been her husband’s. He passed away from cancer some 7 years back, leaving behind his wife, young son and 2-month old daughter. Her elderly mother lives with her and helps to watch her young daughter. Her son has just graduated from university and works for an NGO in Kabul. How she managed to keep all of this together in a patriarchal society is stunning.

Traveling Companions

We visited her pomegranate orchard and garden near her home and picked a few pieces of fruit. This is a supplemental income for her.

Two more stops after this – one very traditional, women separated from the men the other less so –  all of us together.

I’m not only learning about Eid, but I’m learning about the community here. Can’t help but think that though I come from “the land of plenty”, I’d trade much of it in to have the sense of community I’ve found here!

Tagqorgan Mosque Window